Bergen

Why visit Bergen

Bergen is Norway's second city and the undisputed capital of the western fjords — a place of colourful wooden warehouses, seven mountains and salt air that has drawn traders and travellers for nearly a thousand years. Founded around 1070, it was for centuries the largest town in Scandinavia and a key outpost of the Hanseatic League, whose merchants grew rich on dried cod shipped from the Arctic. That heritage survives most vividly at Bryggen, the crooked, gable-fronted wharf on the harbour that has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

What makes Bergen special is the setting. The old town wraps around a working harbour, mountains rise straight from the streets — a funicular and a cable car will carry you up two of them — and beyond the city lie some of the most spectacular fjords on earth. Bergen bills itself as the “gateway to the fjords,” and it is the natural launch pad for the Nærøyfjord, the Flåm railway and the Hardangerfjord. It is smaller, wetter and more intimate than Oslo, with a village-like centre you can walk end to end, a lively student and cultural scene, and a fishmarket that has anchored the waterfront since the Middle Ages. Our self-guided Bergen audio walking tour traces the old Hanseatic quarter at a gentle pace.

Best time to visit

First, the weather, because in Bergen it defines everything: this is widely regarded as the rainiest city in Europe, with rain falling on well over 200 days a year — some counts reach around 240 — and roughly 2,250 millimetres of it annually. Locals shrug and carry on; the saying goes that Bergensers are not made of sugar. Pack a proper waterproof and decent shoes whatever the month, and treat any dry, clear day as the gift it is. The upside of all that rain is impossibly green, lush mountainsides and thundering fjord waterfalls.

Summer (June to August) is the best bet for the fjords and the mildest, longest days, with light lingering close to eleven at night and temperatures in the high teens; it is also the busiest and dearest season, and the cruise ships crowd the harbour. Late spring and early autumn (May, and September to early October) are quieter, cheaper and often surprisingly bright, with autumn colour on the slopes. Winter (November to March) is dark, wet and cool rather than bitterly cold thanks to the Gulf Stream, with snow more likely on the mountaintops than in the streets; it is atmospheric and low-key, and a fine time for cosy cafés and museums between showers. For fjord cruises and the Flåm railway in full flow, aim for late spring through early autumn.

How to get around

Bergen Airport, Flesland (BGO), sits about 15 kilometres south of the centre. The easiest link is the Bybanen light rail (line 1), which runs right from the terminal to the city centre in around 45 minutes for the price of a standard ticket; the Flybussen airport coach is a slightly quicker alternative that also serves central hotels. Bergen is also the western terminus of the scenic Bergen Line railway from Oslo, and a major hub for coastal ferries and express boats along the fjords.

In town you will barely need transport — the compact centre, Bryggen, the fishmarket and the main museums are all within an easy walk. The regional network of buses and the Bybanen light rail is run by Skyss, with tickets bought through the Skyss Billett app. Two funicular-style rides are attractions in their own right: the Fløibanen funicular, running since 1918, climbs to the Fløyen viewpoint 320 metres up in about six minutes, while the Ulriken cable car (Ulriken643) sweeps you 643 metres to the top of the city's highest mountain. Both start from, or close to, the centre.

Where to stay

For a first visit, base yourself in the compact centre (Sentrum), within walking distance of Bryggen, the harbour and the fishmarket — the area around Bryggen and Torget puts the postcard views on your doorstep, while the streets around Torgallmenningen, the main square, sit close to shops and restaurants. The Nordnes peninsula, jutting out past the aquarium, is a quiet, characterful residential area of white wooden houses just minutes from the action. Sandviken, north of Bryggen, offers a handsome old harbourside quarter with a more local feel. For nightlife and student energy, look to the streets around Torgallmenningen and Ole Bulls plass. Because the centre is so walkable and hilly, staying central saves both time and legs; you rarely need to be more than fifteen minutes' walk from the wharf.

What it costs

Like the rest of Norway, Bergen is expensive, though generally a shade cheaper than Oslo. The currency is the Norwegian krone (NOK), and the city runs almost entirely on cards and the Vipps app, so cash is rarely needed. Savings come from the usual Norwegian habits: drink the superb free tap water; buy picnic supplies and cook-your-own from budget supermarkets such as Kiwi and Rema 1000; and remember that wine and spirits are sold only in state Vinmonopolet shops, so alcohol is a genuine splurge. Fjord cruises, the Flåm railway and cable cars are the big-ticket items — booking ahead and travelling in shoulder season both help — but plenty of Bergen is free, from wandering Bryggen's alleys and the fishmarket to walking up Fløyen instead of taking the funicular. The Bergen Card bundles transport and museum entry and can pay off if you are sightseeing hard. Our trip planner helps you budget before you travel.

Top things to do

• Bryggen — the UNESCO-listed Hanseatic wharf, a warren of leaning wooden warehouses, craft workshops and the excellent Hanseatic Museum telling the story of the cod merchants.
• Fløyen — ride the historic Fløibanen funicular (running since 1918) to a 320-metre viewpoint over the city and fjord, with easy forest trails and a lake at the top.
• The Fish Market (Fisketorget) — the centuries-old harbourside market for king crab, salmon and local specialities, with an indoor hall alongside the outdoor stalls.
• Fjord cruise to the Nærøyfjord — sail one of the world's narrowest and most dramatic fjords, a UNESCO site, on a day trip from the harbour.
• The Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana) — one of the world's most scenic train journeys, spiralling down a steep valley past waterfalls; the heart of the classic “Norway in a Nutshell” route from Bergen.
• KODE art museums — four galleries around the Lille Lungegårdsvann lake holding Munch, Astrup and a superb decorative-arts collection, plus composer Edvard Grieg's villa at Troldhaugen.
• Mount Ulriken — the Ulriken643 cable car climbs to the highest of the seven mountains at 643 metres, for panoramic views and a fine ridge walk over to Fløyen.
• Håkonshallen & the Rosenkrantz Tower — the medieval royal hall and defensive tower at Bergenhus fortress, the city's oldest surviving buildings.

Day trips from Bergen

• Flåm & the Nærøyfjord — the star day trip, combining the Bergen and Flåm railways with a cruise on the narrow UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord; doable in a day as “Norway in a Nutshell.”
• The Hardangerfjord — the “orchard of Norway,” famous for spring blossom, cascading waterfalls such as Vøringsfossen and the vertiginous Trolltunga hike in summer.
• Voss — an inland adventure hub between the fjords, reached in about an hour by train, known for skiing, white-water rafting, paragliding and the Gondol cable car.
• Mostraumen & the Osterfjord — a shorter half-day fjord cruise straight from Bergen's harbour, threading past waterfalls and narrow straits without a long journey.

For festivals, markets and what is on while you visit, see our events guide, and browse more Nordic routes over on Travel.

Good to know

• Language: Norwegian is the official language, but English is spoken almost everywhere and very well.
• Money: effectively cashless — bring a contactless card; the Vipps app is used everywhere locally.
• Rain: expect it, and pack a proper waterproof jacket and shoes; umbrellas struggle against the coastal wind.
• Tipping: not expected; service is included, though rounding up is welcome.
• Cruise crowds: Bryggen and the fishmarket are busiest late morning when cruise ships are in; go early or late for calmer photos.
• Book fjord trips ahead: the Flåm railway and popular cruises sell out in high summer, so reserve in advance.